Sushi Lab sources its fish from Kimura Fish Shop, located in Nishiki Market - a shopping district known as "Kyoto's Kitchen" that has long been beloved by locals.
Every morning, the people at Kimura Fresh Fish Shop get up early to buy fresh fish from the Kyoto Central Market. I had the opportunity to observe the sourcing process with Mr. Kimura, Mr. Shioyama, and Mr. Nishiyama from Kimura Fish Shop. The Kyoto Central Market was full of energy despite the early morning hours. Kimura Fish Shop's day begins at 6:00 AM...
1/16 6:00 AM Meeting at Tambaguchi Station
The temperature was 2 degrees at 6:00 AM that day. In the freezing cold where it seemed like it could snow at any moment, Mr. Nishiyama from Kimura Fish Shop appeared briskly on his bicycle.
Despite the early morning hour, he was full of energy, and I could feel his enthusiasm to start the day's work.
After a 7-8 minute walk from Tambaguchi, we arrived at the seafood wholesale market of Kyoto Central Market, passing numerous trucks and turret trucks along the way.
What is a turret truck?
It's an electric cargo vehicle used for transporting goods within the market. Due to its excellent maneuverability and ability to easily carry heavy loads, it has become an indispensable tool in the market. A special license is required to operate it, and these vehicles can be seen zipping freely throughout the market.
6:10 Entering Kyoto Central Market
The first thing we do is greet the suppliers we visit every day.
How to Purchase Fresh Fish
First, we visited the seafood shops we buy from daily and those we regularly rely on. They decide in advance which fish to buy based on customer orders for the day.
Today we visited three shops specializing in tuna, flounder, and oysters.
About Judging Fish Quality
Even among the same species of fish laid out, their head sizes and belly fullness vary daily. The ability to judge fish quality is extremely important.
For tuna, for example, among the various types including wild-caught, farmed, domestic, and imported, they choose which part to buy - whether it's the collar, back, or tail - after examining the color of the meat and fat content.
For flounder, the freshest and most delicious ones have more heart-shaped eyes, small heads, and yet larger bodies.
Building good relationships with the shop staff is also important when buying fresh fish. Since they buy from the same shops every day, becoming friendly with them means they'll recommend fresh fish and teach you how to judge fish quality.
6:30 Payment
After most of the purchases have been decided, other retailers begin to walk around at a more relaxed pace. The crowd thins out, and you can see people engaging in cheerful conversations.
The owner of Kimura Fish Shop goes around to various stores to make payments.
The elderly office clerk manages the register, and surprisingly, she uses an abacus!
What is a Soroban?
The soroban is a traditional Japanese calculating tool. It consists of beads (tama) mounted on rods set within a wooden frame. Each rod has 5 beads, with one bead (called gozu) at the top and four beads (called ichizu) at the bottom.
The soroban can be used for various calculations including addition, subtraction, multiplication, and division. Before calculators became widespread, it was commonly used in Japanese shops and schools. Even today, children attend soroban classes to develop their calculation skills and concentration.
Internationally, it is known as the "Japanese Abacus" and is recognized as one of the representative elements of Japanese culture and education.
6:50 Sourcing Complete
Market sourcing is finished.
We return to the fish shop to prepare for opening.
Basics of the Wholesale Market (Fresh Fish)
The wholesale market is an essential place where fish makes its journey to our dining tables.
First, the fresh fish caught by fishermen is delivered to "wholesalers." The wholesalers conduct auctions (seri) from early morning. An auction is a method where many people call out "I want to buy it at this price!" to determine the price. It's conducted in an auction format where people use hand signals or write prices on bidding cards.
The intermediate wholesalers are the ones who buy fish at the auction. These intermediate wholesalers are experts who divide the fish into smaller portions and cut them according to each store's needs.
Finally, fish shops, supermarkets, and restaurants buy fish from the intermediate wholesalers. And that's how delicious fish makes its way to our dining tables.
In other words, the wholesale market is...
Fishermen → Wholesalers (Auction) → Intermediate Wholesalers → Fish Shops/Supermarkets/Restaurants → Our Dining Tables
...in this order, it's an important place where ingredients make their journey!
Kimura Fish Market
Store Information
Address: 618 Kagiya-cho, Nishiki-koji-dori Miyuki-cho Nishi-iru, Nakagyo-ku, Kyoto
Business Hours: 9:00 AM - 5:30 PM
Closed: Sundays and Public Holidays
Phone: 075-221-2235
History and Characteristics of Kimura Fish Shop
Kimura Fish Shop is one of the long-established fresh fish shops that has been beloved in Nishiki Market for many years. Since its founding, it has continued to provide fresh seafood as an important presence supporting Kyoto's food culture.
The following points are notable characteristics:
Fresh fish carefully selected every morning at Kyoto Central Market
High-quality seafood chosen with professional expertise
Extensive selection focusing on seasonal fish
A trusted established business in Nishiki Market with a track record of supplying many traditional restaurants and fine dining establishments
Contributing to the vitality of Nishiki Market, it is beloved by both locals and tourists alike. Their reliable skills and knowledge in fish selection and handling have been cultivated through years of experience.
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