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The HISTORY OF SUSHI

Writer's picture: Junna.KJunna.K

Sushi ranks high on many websites' lists of Japanese foods to eat when visiting Japan. Why does the sushi we see every day have that particular shape? When was sushi first born? Did sushi originate in Japan?

In this article, we'll explain everything you might not know about Japanese sushi in an easy-to-understand way!

In fact, sushi's history dates back more than 2,000 years. Starting as a method of food preservation, it evolved over time and has now become one of Japan's most beloved culinary exports, cherished worldwide. Let's explore this remarkable transformation together.




1. Ancient Times

Sushi is said to have originated in Southeast Asia and China. It began as a method of preserving fish, using fermentation techniques.

The origins of sushi can be traced to the border regions of northeastern Thailand and Laos, northern Thailand, Myanmar, Cambodia, and China's Yunnan Province. It is believed to have traveled northward through China before reaching Japan.

What these regions had in common was their thriving rice paddy cultivation!

Freshwater fish was mixed with steamed rice and salt for long-term preservation, utilizing the rice's lactic acid fermentation process. Since it took time between preservation and consumption, and long-term storage would turn the rice into a porridge-like consistency, people typically discarded the rice and ate only the fish. This was called narezushi. Because this type of sushi could be preserved for extended periods, it could be transported over long distances, making it a particularly favored food among the ruling class of that era.



2. Yayoi Period

During this period, "narezushi" emerged. This was a preserved food made by fermenting fish with rice and salt, and it became the prototype of modern sushi.

Characteristics

  • Fermented preserved food

  • Rice is not eaten

The Three Major Narezushi: Traditional Fermented Sushi That Still Exists Today

  1. Shiga Prefecture: Funazushi Nigorobuna (crucian carp) is commonly used.

  2. Wakayama Prefecture: Narezushi of Sweet fish It is wrapped in bamboo leaves and other materials with high antibacterial properties.

  3. Akita Prefecture: Hatahata Uses hatahata fish that lives in deep waters.

  

Funa zushi / Shiga pref.
Funa zushi / Shiga pref.

Nare zushi/ Wakayama Pref.
Nare zushi/ Wakayama Pref.

Hatahata/ Akita Pref.
Hatahata/ Akita Pref.



3. Nara Period

During this period, the Kanji(characters) "鮨" (sushi) and "鮓" (sushi) were created and began to appear in written records.

These Kanji "鮨" and "鮓" appear in Nara period documents such as "Shoku Nihongi," "Shosoin Documents," and wooden tablets from "Nara Palace Nagaya-o Residence Ruins." These documents, which recorded meals and tribute items at the imperial court and temples, show that sushi was being eaten during the Nara period.

Originally, the Chinese characters "鮨" and "鮓" were borrowed from China, where "鮨" meant salted fish and "鮓" meant pickled fish.



4. Muromachi Period

"Namanare" emerged, and people began eating the rice along with the fish. Namanare was a method where fish was salted and eaten before the fermentation process was complete, making it possible to eat it in a shorter time compared to traditional narezushi. As a result, the rice remained unfermented and began to be eaten as a side dish.


Because traditional sushi would turn the rice into a porridge-like consistency, a type of sushi with a shorter fermentation period was developed. Since the fish was in a "raw-like" state where fermentation had not fully progressed, it was called "namanare."

Wakayama Prefecture's mackerel namanare and Hokkaido's iizushi are examples of namanare.


5-1. Early Edo Period

In the early period, "hayazushi" (quick sushi) was invented, and seasoning with vinegar began. The tribute system was also established. In the later period, "nigiri-zushi" (Edomae nigiri-zushi), which continues to the present day, was born.


What was the tribute system?

It was institutionalized in 1603 when Tokugawa Ieyasu established the Edo shogunate.

It was a system where feudal lords from various regions presented their local specialties to the shogunate family. Through this system, sushi from all over the country began to be brought to Edo (present-day Tokyo).



Meanwhile, among common people, efforts were made to eat sushi more quickly. Around 1680, vinegar began to be used to add sourness. This led to the birth of "hayazushi," which used vinegar seasoning instead of fermentation and included eating the rice.

With the birth of hayazushi, the world of sushi began to expand in variety.


Types of hayazushi invented during the Edo period

  • Hakozushi: Sushi made by pressing layers of vinegar rice and ingredients in a wooden box. Originated in Osaka, particularly famous for mackerel sushi.

  • Oshizushi: Sushi made by pressing vinegar rice and ingredients in a mold. Various ingredients were used depending on the region.

  • Makizushi: Sushi made by rolling vinegar rice and ingredients in nori seaweed. Often made for festivals and special occasions.

  • Inarizushi: Sushi made by wrapping vinegar rice in fried tofu pouches. It became popular as a common people's sushi.


These types of hayazushi established a groundbreaking method of using vinegar to skip fermentation, serving as an intermediate form between narezushi and nigiri-zushi.



5-2. Late Edo Period

The birth of "Edomae Sushi" - sushi made with fish caught in the sea in front of Edo Castle.

In the late Edo period, "oshizushi" (pressed sushi), which was popular in Kyoto and Osaka, spread to Edo, leading to the birth of nigiri-zushi.

In Edo, food stalls lined up near Edo Bay, with an increasing number of people selling fresh fish caught that day or processed fish products.

Around 1820, a type of sushi called "nigiri hayazuke," which simplified the traditional "hayazushi" process, was developed as a precursor to nigiri-zushi. It involved placing fish on pressed vinegared rice and pressing it in a box. The process was further simplified, evolving into the current style of "nigiri-zushi" that could be quickly formed by hand.


There were many day laborers in Edo who earned daily wages. Therefore, there was high demand for dining out, and sushi stalls where people could casually stop by for a quick meal were popular.


The sushi of that time was different from modern sushi - it was larger, like an onigiri (rice ball), and couldn't be eaten in one bite. The fish wasn't served raw but was either marinated in vinegar or cooked, making fish like horse mackerel particularly popular. Because the fish used as sushi toppings were often caught in the sea in front of Edo Castle, it came to be called "Edomae Sushi" or "Edomae Nigiri-zushi"




6. Modern Era

After World War II, sushi stalls naturally disappeared due to hygiene concerns, leaving only high-end sushi restaurants. During this time, in 1952, "Kyotaru" started a takeout-only sushi chain using a central kitchen system. In 1958, "Genroku Sushi" opened their first "conveyor belt sushi" restaurant that transported sushi on a conveyor belt. This has evolved to include automatic serving systems, touch panel ordering, and various menu developments, as seen in modern chains like "Kura Sushi" and "Sushiro".




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